Ask any dermatologist what the best wrinkle-reducing ingredient is and we’re willing to bet our firstborn they’ll say retinoids. But there’s a gentler, slightly more under-the-radar alternative out there: Derms also love peptides for their skin-smoothing benefits (namely, their ability to minimize lines without causing irritation). If retinoids like retinol and tretinoin are the Regina George of skin care, then peptides are the Cady Heron—more chill, nicer to your face, but still totally worthy of being the star of the show.
The benefits of peptides are legitimate, with plenty of science to back them up. And while dermatologists often recommend them as a substitute for retinoids, particularly for people who can’t tolerate the latter, they also play nicely with most other “actives” (including, yes, retinoids, as well as vitamin C). In other words, you shouldn’t have a problem working them into your routine.
The caveat? “Peptides” is a surprisingly broad category and shopping for the best products can require a bit more legwork than you might expect. That’s why we asked a few experts to explain exactly what to look for when picking peptide serums and moisturizers—and break down the nitty-gritty of what they can do for your skin.
First of all, what are peptides?
“Peptides are short chains of amino acids that are the building blocks of various proteins,” David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Idriss Dermatology in New York City, tells SELF. They play a key role in a variety of processes throughout your body; when it comes to your skin, peptides are important because they help make up the proteins collagen and elastin. Collagen is like the scaffolding for your skin, giving it support and structure so it stays firm, while elastin keeps it stretchy and, yep, elastic, Dr. Kim says.
Both collagen and elastin production innately start to decrease around your late 20s or early 30s, when signs of aging such as wrinkles and laxity can start to pop up. That’s where peptides come in: They can help counteract some of these effects, he explains. To that point….
What can peptides do for your skin?
Here’s where things get a little more complicated. Not all peptides are created equal. As a general rule, they’re used in skin care for their ability to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, Angela Lamb, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai in New York City, tells SELF.
Depending on the type of peptides you’re talking about, however, they can also have other beneficial effects, including decreasing inflammation and acting as antioxidants, Mona Foad, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Cincinnati, tells SELF. (There are even antimicrobial peptides that have been shown to have wound-healing properties, though they’re less likely to be used in skin care.)
Topical peptides are typically classified into these four categories, all of which you can find in serums, moisturizers, and the like (albeit some more commonly than others).
Signal peptides: Per the derms we spoke with, these are the most popular variety in the skin care aisle. They help to stimulate collagen and elastin production and minimize the appearance of facial lines. They’re also the kind that can have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
Enzyme inhibitor peptides: As the name suggests, this type inhibits certain enzymes that play a role in various skin processes, including ones that trigger collagen breakdown and pigment production. (Theoretically, this means they could be beneficial for those dealing with hyperpigmentation, although, according to the doctors we spoke with, there are other way more potent dark spot treatments out there.)
Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides: You’ll see these in products marketed as “Botox in a bottle” (more on that to come). Some research suggests they can inhibit the release of neurotransmitters that control muscle movement, preventing dynamic wrinkles (those formed by repeated muscle movement; think outer-eye lines and the elevens between your brows) from forming.
Carrier peptides: These typically help deliver certain trace elements, such as copper and manganese, to the skin. They don’t necessarily do anything specific for your complexion on their own; rather, they play a role in a product’s overall formulation.
We know, it’s a lot to digest, but don’t stress—we’ll tell you exactly what to look for in peptide products below.
Is there anyone who shouldn’t use peptides?
Pretty much everyone who wants to address fine lines and wrinkles or a loss of firmness and elasticity is a good candidate for peptides. The derms we consulted assured us that they’re extremely well-tolerated, making them a top choice for people with sensitive skin in particular. “There’s really no one who shouldn’t use peptides,” says Dr. Foad, who adds that because they occur naturally in your body, the risk of an allergic reaction is extremely low. Similarly, unlike stronger actives like the retinoids of the world, they don’t cause irritating side effects such as dryness and peeling.
That being said, while using peptides probably won’t do any harm, there’s no reason to use them until you hit your late 20s, Dr. Kim notes. “You really don’t need those ‘anti-aging’ benefits until then because your skin cells are still producing plenty of collagen,” he points out.
Are there any ingredients you shouldn’t combine with peptides?
Dr. Kim likens peptides to gentle ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, in that they get along with most of the other skin care kids. The one noteworthy exception? Both Dr. Foad and Dr. Lamb call out that peptides don’t mix well with beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid; or alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), like glycolic acid. “The hydroxy acids have the potential to break down the peptides, essentially making them inactive,” Dr. Lamb cautions.
What’s the best way to incorporate peptides into your skin care routine?
First things first: Opt for a leave-on formula (rather than a wash-off product like a cleanser) so the peptides will have enough time to sink into your skin and do their thing. Serums, in particular, are your best bet, because they typically contain higher concentrations of actives (peptides included), according to Dr. Kim—they’re the format that will give you the most bang for the buck.
Another perk: Peptide serums often also contain hydrating, skin barrier-strengthening ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides, Dr. Lamb says. To be fair, the same holds true for many moisturizers with peptides too; you’ll just be getting a lower concentration in those formulas. So if you already have a serum you love and you’re just on the hunt for a skin-smoothing cream, one with peptides can totally fill that void.
No matter the particular peptide product you choose, you can apply it morning and night, but if you prefer using it only once per day, Dr. Foad suggests reserving it for bedtime: “This is when your skin is naturally in recovery mode and ingredients can actually penetrate better as well.”
So how do you pick the best peptide product?
This is admittedly challenging because “peptides” is often used as a catchall marketing term, Dr. Lamb notes. “It’s not as clear-cut as looking for something like retinol on an ingredients label,” she says.
As we mentioned above, there are a variety of different peptides on the scene and, to complicate matters further, there are also trademarked ingredients made with a certain peptide or a combination of two or more. To start, you’ll likely see the term ‘peptides’ in the product name or at least somewhere on the front packaging. But here’s where that extra legwork we talked about comes in….
The majority of skin care options contain signal peptides (with neurotransmitter-inhibiting ones coming in a close second). A few specific types to look out for, according to the derms we consulted: Matrixyl 3000, copper tripeptide, and palmitoyl tripeptide. Matrixyl 3000 is an example of a trademarked variation, a combination of two different peptides that’s been shown to be very effective for targeting wrinkles, notes Dr. Kim, who adds that it’s one of the kinds he suggests seeking out.
Regarding the second category, neurotransmitter-inhibitors, Argireline is the most popular. It’s the trademark name for acetyl hexapeptide-8, which is positioned as having Botox-like effects—again, for its ability to inhibit muscle movement and subsequently minimize dynamic wrinkles. (Note: The data on this peptide is a bit mixed. While some research suggests that it can reduce wrinkle depth and could be an alternative to botulinum toxin injections, another study showed that it did not improve the appearance of facial lines.)
It’s also worth mentioning that, unlike actives like vitamin C and salicylic acid, you won’t see percentages of peptides listed, Dr. Kim explains. Instead, you can rely on the order of ingredients to help ensure you’re picking a product that’s going to deliver on its promises: Peptides should be in the first few spots. The higher up it is on the list, the greater the concentration, Dr. Foad says. Here are a few derm-approved peptide serums and creams to aid you in your search.
The bottom line
Topical peptides have research on their side, not to mention that they’re universally well-tolerated and can be seamlessly incorporated into almost any existing routine. Yes, you may have to tap into your inner skin care science nerd and dedicate a little more time to the shopping process if you want to find a peptide-based product that’s worth the money. But if your goal is to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles (without running the risk of irritation or other irksome side effects), that extra work may be well worth the effort.
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